Baitcasting vs. Spinning Tackle
Anglers use an almost bewildering range of techniques to entice fish to strike. And from drop shot rigs to big spinners, crankbaits to topwater, specialized rods matched to these applications are often the best bet.
But there’s no question that baitcasting reels dominate the world of bass fishing. And with the exception of working very light lures with line weighing in at less than 10-pound test--and perhaps days where you’ll be casting into heavy wind--you’ll find most baitcasting rods wearing a baitcasting reel.
Now, no doubt some of that lopsided victory for baitcasters has to do with television and YouTube; we fish what we see the pros using, and the pros have been running baitcasters for decades. But there are good reasons they’ve chosen these fishing tools, and those reasons are worth discussing.
The Basics: How are Baitcasting Reels Different?
Baitcasting reels don’t work at all like spinning reels.
Fixed vs. spinning spools - A spinning reel uses a fixed spool. When you open the bail and cast, line slips off and over the end of the spool, unfurling as it runs off the reel.
By contrast, a baitcasting reel has a spool that spins on bearings. As you cast, the line spins the spool, unwinding as it does.
Perpendicular vs. in-line spools - If you’re new to fishing, you may not have noticed this immediately, but spinning reels have spools that are aligned perpendicular to the motion of the line. Baitcasting reels, on the other hand, unspool line in the direction it will travel.
This tiny difference matters. Because of the in-line spool on baitcasting reels, they tend to impart less memory to line, especially as you step-up in test and diameter, or run fluorocarbon main line.
Drag systems - Good spinning reels sport a drag knob on the end of the spool. This system works well, especially with the lighter lines they’re designed for. But the star drag systems on baitcasting reels are generally superior, especially with heavier line.
Gear ratio - Baitcasting rods offer a wider range of gear ratios, especially at the top-end. And if you’re looking to gather line measures in feet per crank, they’re the only game in town.
Different rods - If you’re new to fishing, you may not realize that spinning and baitcasting rods are different beasts. From whether the reel sits atop or below the rod, to the design of the blank and the size of the guides, the differences are apparent once you know what to look for.
Looking for a dedicated baitcasting rod? Check out our post on the best baitcasting rods!
Why Do the Pros Prefer Baitcasting Rods and Reels?
Let’s take a close look at why baitcasting tackle is generally superior for certain types of fishing.
Heavy line - This is probably the strongest reason behind the baitcaster’s widespread adoption among anglers. Spinning reels struggle when lines climb above 10- to 12-pound test, largely because that fixed spool reaches its practical performance limit. When it does, line starts to slip off the spool, fouling casts and reducing both distance and accuracy. And just as bad, the line retains too much memory--especially with fluorocarbon--further impairing performance.
By contrast, baitcasters love heavy test, and the in-line spooling really cuts down on memory issues.
Control - In all but the windiest conditions, a baitcasting reel provides greater casting control. Because the spool spins freely--with only your thumb as a brake--experienced anglers can cast more accurately and with greater finesse with baitcasting reels. And once your thumb has been educated in the mysteries of the casting reel, it can help you detect bites, too.
Drag - Baitcasting reels offer superior drag systems. Simply put, the star-shaped knob allows for greater drag, more precise settings, and improved smoothness over even the best spinning reels.
Now, this is only true with heavier lines, and with light tackle, spinning reels really come into their own.
Gear ratio - For running buzz baits and other fast-moving presentations, the high gear ratios available on baitcasters just can’t be beat.
What Are the Weaknesses of Baitcasting Tackle?
Baitcasters aren’t in every sense superior, and it’s worth considering where they fall short, too.
Ease-of-use - Spinning reels are simple to use, and there’s a bit of a learning curve with baitcasters. Until you develop some serious thumb mojo, expect bird’s nests!
Light line - Below 10-pound line (or it’s diameter equivalent), spinning reels are going to outperform baitcasters, hands-down. That’s the sweet spot of their design--what they’re intended to do.
Light lures - In contrast to the fixed spool on a spinning reel, baitcasting designs feature a spool that spins to release and retrieve line. The higher the quality, the more frictionless that spool’s movement will be, but physics doesn’t like to be cheated.
As a result, irrespective of the number of bearings, the viscosity of the lubrication, or the materials involved, that spool will generate friction. With very light lures in the range of 1/32 of an ounce, this will noticeably affect casting. That’s why the vast majority of ultralight and light rods wear a spinning reel.
Braid - Counterintuitively, baitcasting reels have a braid problem, especially in small diameters. Even when running superlines that are as fat as 10-pound mono, a hard hookset, a wicked fight, or a firm snag can bury that first spool-wrap of braid, causing a bird’s nest on the next cast.
Wind - Baitcasting spools spin freely, in contrast to the spinning reel’s fixed spool. And when casting a light lure into the wind, that can lead to problems. As the lure meets resistance in the air, it’ll slow down, but the spool is still spinning vigorously.
And what happens when line is coming off the spool faster than the lure is moving? That’s right--real trouble!
What We Look For in a Baitcasing Reel
Durability
Baitcasting reels tend to be pricey, and nothing is more frustrating on the water than an expensive piece of tackle that stops working after a single season.
The reels we’ll recommend have a well-earned reputation for durability, making the most of your money. And while we’re not beholden to any manufacturers--we tell the truth, good or bad, about every product--three names are worth remembering: Daiwa, Shimano, and Lews.
These three manufacturers are producing some of the best reels I’ve ever used, and if you stop and have a chat on the water with your fellow anglers, chances are, you’ll see these reels on their rods.
Great drag
When you’re fighting a real monster, an awesome drag can is your best friend. And from cushioning hooksets when running a crankbait, to assisting your line with a fish that would otherwise break it, you want smooth and strong to be your watchwords.
For instance, when fishing crankbaits, you may want your drag at a modest 3 to 4 pounds. You’re looking for smooth performance, just a touch of give to prevent you from ripping treble hooks free, especially if you’re not using a glass rod.
But if you’re trying to ensure long-distance hooksets, or dragging fish out of heavy cover, you’ll want to increase your drag settings. No slippage is the name of the game in these situations, though opinions are divided about how much drag is enough.
Many anglers advise that the ⅓ rule always applies: set your drag to ⅓ of the breaking strength of your line. That gives you plenty of power to torque big fish while still protecting your line and rod.
But others don’t agree. Essentially, they argue that they bought high-dollar superlines to use them to their capacity, and when fishing heavy cover, they’ll set the drag to the maximum. At that point, they’re relying on the line, knot, and rod as a solid connection, and the idea is to drag fish from the nasty stuff.
Who’s right?
Well, both camps have solid reasons for what they’re doing. But generally, you won’t need more than 6 to 10 pounds of drag.
But do you need all the torque your truck can deliver?
Awesome casting
A good baitcasting reel has a spool that tries to defy physics. It should spin as freely as mechanically possible, and be paired with slick surfaces for the line to run through, as well. In fact, the proper design of the levelwind (the piece that guides the line on and off the spool) is essential to long casts.
Daiwa’s “T-wing” is famous in fishing circles for its smooth function, but other top manufacturers have their own proprietary designs.
But long casts are useless if they end in bird’s nesting backlash. To help prevent this, many higher-end rods feature magnetic braking systems that apply more pressure as the spool slows, keeping the reel from feeding more line than needed.
When designed and executed by the best, these systems help you cast light lures, work in the wind, and launch your crankbaits into the next county.
Gear ratio
Gear ratio describes how many revolutions of the spool one crank of the handle generates. For instance, a gear ratio of 7.5:1 indicates that one turn of the handle spins the spool 7.5 times. The higher the ratio, the faster the retrieve. This speed is also represented by the number of inches per turn (IPT), for example, 31”. In this case, that would mean that every turn of the handle picks up 31 inches of line!
Fast isn’t always better than slow, but it does offer a bit more versatility. It’s easier to slow your retrieve than to speed it up, and with a little practice, you can ease your natural cadence to match the needs of slower presentations.
The reels we’ve selected are available in a range of ratios, but we’ve chosen to highlight what we think is the sweet spot a 7-speed offers. While probably a little hot for crankbaits and deep divers, it lets you pick up a lot of slack quickly and is pretty much ideal for soft plastics and jigs.
Capacity
Capacity isn’t something to sneer at, especially if you need to strip and cut line while you’re fishing.
The reels we’ve selected are fairly even on this front, though there are standouts. Of course, a larger spool typically translates into a bigger reel, so there are trade-offs.
The capacities we list, for example, 12/120, are measured in mono diameter equivalents and feet.
Weight and “Palmability”
Weight and comfort are critical elements of a good reel. Ideally, your reel pretty much disappears on your rod and in your hand, and a few ounces count.
We’ll note weight and discuss comfort in each of our reviews.
Bearings
Bearing count matters with baitcasting reels, though the standard is just one roller bearing for the spool. The rest are in the innards, making retrieves as slick as icy stairs.
While not an iron-clad rule, more is better. There are exceptions, of course, and the 13 Fishing Concept A demonstrates that less can be more.
Price
Let’s be realistic--you’re going to pay quite a bit more for a good baitcasting reel than you would for a similar spinning model. That’s a fact.
But beyond a moderate price-point, each dollar you spend isn’t buying you a dollar’s worth of extra performance.
We’ve put together a list of mid-range reels that can save you some money while still astounding you with their performance.
Final Thoughts
These reels are so good - so uniformly excellent - that picking a “best” product just doesn’t make sense.
From smooth casting to comfort, backlash control to quality drag, each and every one delivers in spades. They’ve got the strength, speed, casting, and no-nonsense performance anglers crave, and I’d fish them all without a second thought.
The Lew’s is probably the best for windy days and light lures, but the Daiwa is damn close. For casting distance, I’d probably give the nod to the Daiwa or the Shimano. For capacity and drag, the Revo SX or the Daiwa are probably your top picks.
How would I choose?
I’d wait for a sale or discount, look for a good deal, and pick up a few on this list. I’d put them on the same rod, assess how they feel in my hand, and pick the one I liked best.
It’s that simple.
Please leave a comment below - we’d love to hear from you!
I appreciate the info about gear ratios. Good review about baitcasting reels. Thank you!